- Beetroot – (in modules, makes it much easier to plant out)
- Broad beans
- Broccoli – (purple sprouting) Claret and Rudolph are good varieties.
- Carrots – (try yellow and purple carrots) Yellowstone works in all types of soil.
- Chard – bright lights
- Courgettes – Defender, Tuscany and Pathenon are the best varieties.
- Cucumbers – Try Burpless Tasty, grow on a mound or ridge to aid drainage.
- French beans – I grow a climbing heritage variety called Bob and Mary and a modern dwarf variety called Ferrari.
- Leeks – Mussleborough seeds available in the shop.
- Lettuce – grow something different like Nyman’s, Amaze, Red Iceberg. Sow little and often to avoid a glut.
- Parsnips – try tender and true, hollow crown, gladiator.
- Peas – still for sale in the shop.
- Rocket – goes great with salad’s.
- Runner Beans – a must for the allotment, we have some for sale in the shop.
- Spinach – perpetual is the best variety.
- Swedes – grow in modules to avoid flea beetle.
- Sweetcorn – It’s so important to grow the right variety in all vegetables, especially sweetcorn, it’s the difference between success and failure. Swift always works for me.
- Potatoes (not many left in shop so hurry up and buy if required),
- Summer cabbages, broad beans, artichokes,
- Leeks when pencil thick,
- Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, lettuce. Granular fertilizers such as fish, blood and bone, Growmore, Vitax Q4, potato fertilizer all available in the shop.
- Onions – if you haven’t planted them with a granular slow release fertilizer you will need to feed them occasionally.
- Tomatoes– plant in an unheated greenhouse after the middle of May.
- Potatoes – earth up as they grow.
- Peppers – Pinch out when they are about 12” tall to encourage lots of branches. Feed every 2 weeks with liquid fertilizer (Organic and non-organic available in the shop)
- Apples – Codling moth pheromone traps should be put up the middle of May.
- Plums – Plum moth pheromone traps should be put up the beginning of May. I started using these traps 3 years ago on my plot as every plum I tried to eat had a maggot inside, but last year was the best ever so far, less than 10% were infected.
- Feed all fruit trees, bushes, with fish, blood and bone and mulch underneath with manure.
- Blackberries – tie in new shoots.
Pests and diseases:
- Spray any fruit trees if infested with aphids or caterpillars after petal fall with organic sprays, use these at night when the bees are in bed.
- Brassicas – cover or the pigeons will have a picnic.
- Gooseberries – check for pests.
- There are organic slug pellets available in the shop to help guard against damage to newly planted runner beans and cabbage.
- Leeks – there is now a pheromone trap that can be used for leeks, or you can net them. We have netting and fleece in the shop.
- Still very cold at the moment but shade your greenhouse on hot days and/or leave the door open or your plants will fry in the heat.
- Harden off plants before planting out or they will go into shock and it will take a couple of weeks before they start growing again.
- Earth up potatoes to protect from late frost.
- Straw strawberries, put straw, cardboard or polythene under plants to keep them off the soil.
- Feed plants: Brassicas = poultry manure, Onions and other root vegetables = Vitax Q4, fruit = Bonemeal, tomatoes = Tomorite, Potatoes = potato fertilizer, all other veg = fish, blood and bone or Growmore. All available in the shop.
- Use pheromone traps in apple and plum trees to stop codling and plum moth maggots ruining fruit.
- Keep a watch out for pests and diseases especially slugs. Organic slug pellets available in the shop.
Finally, I was reading a book earlier printed in 1936 which states you should lightly dust your Cabbages with DDT! I wonder if the author lived past 40?